Monday, May 30, 2011

India 1, Benjamin 0

The past weekend started well and ended in bowel-driven agony. Literally within 24 hours of Flo telling me that I needed to get sick in order to experience the India that moves your insides, well... I did.

BUT!

The weekend was still a resounding success. Some highlights: lunch with Flo and a friend of hers from France (who hates it here), walking around a deer park (like a zoo, but only for deer), getting directions to the metro which ended up being an HOUR AWAY on foot (despite people describing it like it was just around the corner... each time I asked for directions), getting lost and ending up in the slums, eating delicious butter chicken, buying one of those fancy long embroidered shirt-like thingys, and getting a teach yourself hindi book. however, based on a quick perusal of the language, I don't think I'm capable of teaching myself. That was Saturday. I also found out that Delhi can be expensive (ish) if you go to the right places. Apparently modern = cool = Western here, so the shopping area I went to (Connaught Place) was set up pretty similar to a lot of other urban upper-scale storefronts. I went with a guy from work, Abhinav, who is from the Delhi area (a bordering state I think) but is doing his J.D. at GWU. He was a huge help. That evening I watched the India Premier League cricket final because I totally understand the game now, which is my biggest triumph over India to date. By that time I was in the throes of the intestinal version of Bastille Day, so I stayed in, fell asleep, and watched the Barça victory in the morning. Messi is unbelievable.

Sunday was a little slower because my body was determined to bring me down. I probably stayed out longer than I should have, but there's so much to see! I went to a Baha'i service at this place called the Lotus Temple, because it's shaped like, well, a lotus. See below.



As you can see, there are hundreds of people streaming in and out of the thing the entire time it's open. This creates some difficulties for the ol' smelling organ. First of all, Indians bathe less frequently. They just do. Secondly, the temple is a shoes-free zone. What they do is herd you past an underground window, where you exchange your shoes for a tag, like a coat check. However, it's 105 degrees and there are hot stones. Solution? Put a woven mat down on the path and pour water on it from time to time to cool it off. Fine, right? No. Water plus sweat from millions of soles seep into said mat, which means that the last hundred meters are like wading through a sea of foot odor. Unpleasant. The service itself was nice and short, although the visitors (nearly all Indian) weren't the most respectful of any I'd seen, but you get that in European cathedrals too. On the way out a group accosted me, and after some initial misunderstandings I understood that a dude my age wanted his picture taken with me. I obliged, including one where we did a presidential handshake pose. I really, really wish I had that picture.

I had planned on walking more but the heat was unbearable, so I spent the afternoon finishing my book in a cafe and then a hookah bar. After a long walk to India Gate (see below) and watching some cricket in a park, I got horribly lost and eventually ended up at a Catholic service in the evening, which was both surprisingly full of people and excruciatingly boring. We did sing some songs I knew from back in the days of going to chapel, though. Some gems from the 1970s as well as a couple older hymns like Billy Graham played at his revivals.



I've started taking yoga from 6:30-8am in the morning before work, which is really awesome. I'm not the worst person in there either, contrary to my expectations, which is a plus. Oh crap time for work.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Settling in

I'm settling into a routine now, although it's kind of a lonely one.

I was instructed to set up a time to take tea and breakfast in the morning, which means I am forced to be out of bed and reasonably clothed by 7:30. This wouldn't be so bad, except I'm still jetlagging, so I become wide awake just when I need to go to bed.

Bouncing back from my initial disappointment, I've settled on something even better. There's a really nice yoga studio within walking distance of my house, so starting on Monday I'll be taking two weeks of intensive, 90 minute classes, starting at 6:30 (groan). They tell us not to shower afterward because it messes with your chi or something. Again, the not showering thing...

When I say "I settled" on it, it's not really the whole truth. I am getting pampered to the point that it's kind of embarrassing. I've seen a single other white person since I've been here, so maybe that's part of it, but everyone treats me as though I'm about to die from heat stroke or keel over from culture shock. They offered to walk me to the metro and are constantly asking me if the food is too spicy. I try to tell people that I love Indian food, but to no avail. Anyway the point of this is that, despite the fact that they spoke English and it's 100 meters away, Colonel Nayar got his guard to walk me around and do errands with me. It's ok, because he's hilarious, but still.... I don't think I've been taken care of like this since I was a child.

This weekend I'm going to start exploring the city. There are other interns at work who are about my age (including a 1L from GWU), so I've been hanging out with them at the office, but people live all over the place / with their parents, so no post-work options so far. Also, most of them are only here for a couple more weeks, which is lame. One of my supervisors is trying to help me find a bar to watch the Champions League final, and I'm going to (maybe) start playing basketball with guys from work in the mornings before work, so hopefully I'll have a real friend soon. (one exception: my friend Flo, who was July's roommate in Prague, is living here and I'm going to see her this weekend! but... she too is leaving me in a couple weeks. Lame.). In the meantime, there's always the Nayars. We talk about cricket, traveling in Europe, and how crazy Pakistan is (that's a real favorite). Pretty awesome stuff.

Time to go to work. I'm doing work that is *exactly* the same as some of the research I did for my senior thesis, which is pretty awesome.

Monday, May 23, 2011

This explains the portliness

A Gold's Gym membership in New Delhi costs 6500 rupees/month, which comes out to about $155. So much for my summer fitness plans.

Sunday, May 22, 2011

First Email Re-Post

No one likes an email spammer. Hence, this blog. I'll be posting from time to time and will put pictures up as well. At least, that's the plan.

Below is an email I sent right when I got back. An addendum: the party to which I refer had the in-laws of Shah Rukh Khan, the most famous actor in India, among its guests. I met his wife's brother, cousin, and parents. They were all really nice. Mom, I gave them duty-free scotch as well as the gift bag, and both the Colonel and his wife really liked it. I start work tomorrow, at which point I'll get to figure out other stuff such as learning Hindi, getting a cell phone, and starting a gym membership and/or yoga classes. Next weekend I'm going to pick up my first-ever tailor-made suit, made by some dude who is allegedly "one of the best in Delhi". At the very least, his business card was fancy and he uses Italian material. Ok, the email:

Just arrived. I was able to sleep a full 7 hours last night without waking up once, which makes the misery of not really sleeping much on a 15 hour flight seem like it might have been worth it. My family is a retired Colonel (Mr. Nayar) and his wife. Last night they had a party because someone (nephew? niece? not sure) recently got married so you have to have the newlyweds over to welcome them into the family. The sister of the dude who got married said they have 4 dinners this week, and the wedding was weeks ago. Reason number 8597 to marry an Indian.

A few pieces of awesome news. I met an old friend of the host family last night who, wait for it, studied in MÜNCHEN and then worked in AUGSBURG from 1953-61. We spoke some German. Brandon, he told me about this place in Augsburg that's the oldest socialist colony in the world. Apparently some weaver owned a bunch of forest land a few centuries ago and bequeathed some low-income housing to the city funded by his property holdings. It costs like 2 euros to stay there, and you just have to say a prayer for him. Purgatory. Ohhhhh yeah. It's called the Fuggerei, after the founder, somethingorother Fugger. Still there. Check it out.

Also, they have satellite, which means I'm watching the Thunder-Mavericks game right now, and can watch the Champions League final next Saturday (it's on at 10:30pm, Dad!). We live about 100 yards from the market, where I can buy about everything. Mom/Dad, I'm going to get an electrical adapter and shampoo today, so set your minds at ease. Colonel Nayar is also taking me to a tailor today so I can pick out fabric and have a suit made. Boo ya. Also, we have servants. I get to order tea and breakfast the night before, and they change my bathroom linens every day, and my bedding 2-3 times a week. We also have a rooftop terrace with flowers and a view of some of the city. I might never leave. I also met a nice Indian girl on the plane who gave me her contact info in case I need anything or some "advices" and asked me what my "good name" was. Getting used to the dialect. Also, there was a dude on the plane across the aisle from me who was literally the rudest man in the world. Like the Dos Equis commercial dude, but for lack of manners. He shouted every time he wanted something, and spent the first 45 minutes of the flight just demanding scotch. I need scotch! It was like Anchorman, but not funny. He treated the stewardesses like subhumans and acted as though he was the only passenger on the flight. And this is in coach. Unbelievable.

Anyway someone is coming to pick me up on Monday, so I don't have to figure out the metro yet, but eventually that's how I'll be doing my commute. I don't get picked up til 9:15 either, which is pretty clutch. I'll try to take some pictures semi-soon once I can charge my camera. The wifi here is pretty fast, so I should be able to be in pretty good contact.

K, gonna go back to being really excited.